Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling 2023
ASIAN PEAR • CURRY LEAF • NECTARINE
2023 produced a small crop of fantastic quality with green fruited aromas and a complex, multi-layered palate reminiscent of the famous 2017 vintage. 750ml.
Appearance: pale straw, green edges
Aroma: citrus blossom of lime and lemon, pippin apple, green mango with hints of daffodil, lemon sherbet, curry leaf, Asian pear and honey dew melon; intense, complex and lifted
Palate: lime peel, granny smith apple, passionfruit, white nectarine, orange oil green papaya; elegant, long persistence, refined, razor sharp focus with a seamless complete texture
A cool dry winter gave way to very wet and cool spring in the Porongurups topping up soil moisture, but the chilly periods led to issues with flowering which resulted in crops up to 50% lower than average. Slow vine growth indicated a late harvest, yet the new year brought dry windy conditions, necessitating some targeted critical irrigation. Nets went on early to ward off birds which were hungry due to a poor Marri blossom event. Late March (a week later than the 2022 vintage) saw the first Riesling come in with tiny yields of exceptional quality. Typical sporadic rain events peppered March with some larger ones happening in early April. By mid April, a week of sunny, warm and breezy weather (perfect for our reds) allowed us to pick fully ripe, clean fruit until the end of the month.
An exceptional year of achingly low yields, giving complex and complete wines of detail and plushness.
Beginning in late March, the grapes were meticulously hand-harvested, sorted in the early morning, and then delivered to the winery to be chilled overnight at 0C in a cool room. The fruit was whole bunch pressed in a tank press using a sparkling wine cycle with as few rotations as possible to minimise colour and skin tannin pick up. The free-run juice was kept separate from the pressings and fermented in stainless steel at 15C utilising a carefully selected aromatic yeast to preserve aromatics. A small portion was fermented in seasoned French oak barriques to give texture. This was reintroduced to the main ferment after several weeks. The wine was then aged on lees (grape and yeast solids) for two months before being bottled in June.
This was a year of tiny quantities delivering a wine of incredible complexity with powerful aromatics and laser precision framed by mineral texture speaking of the granitic sandy clay loams of the vineyard.